For leather work, consider the basics: an awl and spare point, a retractable X-acto knife
and spare blades, a retractable knife with a break-off blade and a rotary punch. In
addition, you'll need needles, a lump of beeswax and some waxed linen thread.
As well, a pair of pliers to pull the needle through the leather is a must, and scissors you
can use for cutting the leather. Then there are edge slickers and bevellers that are used to
finish the edges, drive punches for bigger holes and thong cutters for making laces. A
T-square, compass and yardstick are essential to ensure that your leather work is
If you're just starting out with leather work, you might not want to spend a lot of money
on tools. Once you've worked with the basic set and completed a few projects, you'll
have a better idea of what tools work best and what you use most. At that point, a little
research and some comparative shopping can lead you to acquiring some better quality
tools that will enhance your leather work.
Of course, even the most expensive tools won't help if you haven't taken the time to
develop and perfect your craft. If you do your very best with what you have, it doesn't
matter if you can't afford the most expensive awl or the latest knife.
Quality will show
Tips and Tricks:
* Start with a basic tool set.
* Buy better quality tools once you've completed some
projects and have a better idea of what will enhance the quality of your leather work.
* Study the various types of leather before starting.
There are many different types of leather available, some better than others, depending
upon the project you have in mind. Vegetable-tanned leather, also called tooling leather,
has been processed using vegetable dyes rather than chemicals. It's usually flesh-colored
and is excellent for a variety of projects, especially if the top is to be stamped or tooled.
Because it has a relatively rigid structure, this type of leather is ideal for leather work items
like book covers and belts.
Oil-tanned leather, also called latigo, unlike other leathers, has a waxy surface and is ideal
for leather work projects where durability and flexibility are a must, such as for tack and
saddles. Avoid using it though if you don't want the finished product to have stretch and
flexibility, such as in dog collars. Bear in mind also that it can't be tooled or stamped.
Top Grain Leather
Top grain leather has one smooth side, called grain, which is the skin side, and a rough
inner side, the flesh side. Either side can be used, rough or smooth.
Chrome-tanned leather is dyed with modern chemicals such as chromium and comes in a
variety of colors, is often white on one side, though the cut edges can be a different color
than the facing. It's relatively inexpensive, but not very breathable, and can't be tooled or
stamped because it's too soft for leather work and it's waterproof
Weight of Leather
Leather thickness is given in ounces. The heavier the weight, the thicker the leather is.
Calf or goat skin is generally 2 ounces or 1/32 inch thick. One ounce is 1/64th of an inch
thick. On the other end of the scale, 8 ounce leather is usually 1/8 inch thick.
* Tooling leather is the best choice for most leather work projects.
* Latigo leather is great for durables like tack and saddles.
* Choose suede and garment leather when making clothing.
* The heavier the weight of leather, the thicker it is.
* When ordering leather through the mail, try some sample swatches first.
* Keep your leather soft and supple with the proper oil.
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